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We are stopping in a private hotel on a beautiful street and although we are courteously treated it is perhaps well for us that we had secured our accommodations beforehand by a hard and fast agreement. The accommodations are good, the food well prepared and well served; but there is an atmosphere of social coldness quite different from what we experienced in Scotland. The weather is delightful; not so cold as we found it in Scotland when overcoats were almost constantly in demand.
St. Etienne is the head of the arondissement of the same name and the capital town of the department of the Loire. It was originally in the ancient province of Lyons, and is still closely associated with that very ancient city. It was in Lyons in the centre of the Roman imperial administration in Gaul that the first Gallic church was built and the first Christian martyrs of that race shed their blood. Here Irenaeus preached and exercised the office of bishop. The church of Lyons and of Vienne suffered severely in the persecutions carried on during the reign of the good Marcus Aurelius in the latter part of the second century. In none of the accounts of that period do I find any mention of St. Etienne nor has it found mention in Duruy's history. It seems to be inhabited by the fortunate people whose annals are few. At present it has a population of about 150,000 and is among the most important manufacturing cities of France and a railroad centre. Here are great manufactories of arms, cutlery and hardware, and enormous silk ribbon factories. There are all told perhaps seventy-five thousand men, women and children engaged in these factories of St. Etienne.
Halting at a village we took what the French call the major breakfast, having taken our little breakfast before starting from home. The village was Serriere on the bank of the Rhone, the hotel was rural, and I was careful to make a note of the articles of food served as giving so much light upon living away from the cities. The bill of fare was as follows: Muskmelon; cold meat-pie; fried salsify; beef with mushrooms; roast chicken; grapes, peaches and pears; and finally cakes and coffee, with wine of course all through the dinner, or breakfast as it was called. The banks of the river were walled up in front of the town and a long well shaded promenade overlooking the stream was laid out. Small as was the town it had its market of clothes, and here, too, I noticed a manufactory of trunks and travelling bags. A good bridge which at the time of our visit was undergoing repairs spans the river here; we crossed on this bridge and took an extensive walk into the country opposite the town where were orchards, vineyards and grain fields. Returning to our hotel we set out for home by way of this bridge and down the eastern bank of the Rhone.
We had at first a long stretch of level road as we descended the left bank of the Rhone through orchards and vineyards untl we reached the old historic town of Vienne. This town is situated at the junction of the Gere with the Rhone 16 miles south of Lyons and dates back to the days of Roman occupation; indeed it was a city even before the coming of the Romans. Originally it was built by the Allobroges and became the capital of the Roman province created there to which was given the name of Allobrogia. It was the earliest centre of Christianity in Gaul and was for a time the capital of the Kingdom of Burgundy. It was so important that the archbishop of Vienne remained the primate of Gaul until the French Revolution. Several church councils have been held here, notably that of 1311-12, in which Pope Clement V suspended the order of the Templars. It now has a good trade in wine and grain, and contains a population of about 25,000. Among its noted buildings are the temple of Augustus and Livy, a Roman Corinthian temple built in the dawn of the Christian era and later converted into a church, and the Cathedral which is of characteristic style and dimensions. The Allobroges who had occupied this territory previous to the coming of the Romans were a Celtic people of whom little is known. Vienne was their chief city; they were brought under Rome 121 B. C. 1e1e36bf2d